By Orlo Dietrich
Looking forward to any fishing trip fills each of us with anticipation, and expectations. Looking back, the realities of each trip become our memories. For my wife and I, very few have been disappointing, most have been good, and occasionally one is exceptional.
For the past thirty years we have fly-fished the Caribbean, Alaska, Venezuela, Panama and most of our western states; we simply love the beauty and solitude of fly fishing.
2023, however, was a very special year for us, with major birthdays and a significant wedding anniversary. Myriam’s planning took us to one of the very rare “perfect” trips.
The Seychelles, a collection of 115 islands over 1000 miles off the coast of East Africa, is the smallest and least populated sovereign African country. The government is very committed to preserving the biodiversity of the islands and has established several nature preserves and marine parks. It’s reputation among fly fishermen is legendary.
We chose Alphonse Island Lodge, on the remote Alphonse Island; 250 miles from the capital of Victoria, on Mahe Island. The Island is owned by Blue Safari Seychelles, and is managed not only for their world acclaimed fly fishing, but also for their ecotourism; both driven by the highest commitment to protecting the environment, including the many coral reefs, its complex fishery and the ocean’s many inhabitants.
We often use too many words in an attempt to describe a place we hold dear in our hearts. Imagine a 550-acre island, left to its natural beauty except for small sandy roads that let you travel, by foot or bicycle, between your private villa on the beach, the exceptional lodge and dining facilities, and the small marina and fishing center. Throw into the picture a perfect sand beach in front of your villa where you can relax or catch bonefish wading in the shallow water, plus the daily opportunity to view the rare Giant Tortoises, with an average life span of 150 years, found only here and in the Galapagos Islands, as well as an incredible concentration of tropical birds.
Alphonse Island Lodge is the only place we have visited in the past 30 years that is equally receptive to the non-fisherman. While the typical fishing lodge is focused primarily on fishing, as is reflected by the accommodations, the culinary scheduling, and the other available activities, Alphonse offers a variety of other activities, as well as daily tours and seminars on the non-fishing world around the Seychelles.
They are a center for the Reef Manta Project, and are focused on tracking the incredible giant reef mantas found throughout the Indian Ocean. During one evening seminar, we learned they had identified a new young female. Evidently the spots on the manta’s underside are as accurate as a fingerprint. Their tradition is to “auction” off the right to name the manta, with all the funds going to support the project. So now, our granddaughter Ayjan, who lives in DC, has her namesake swimming in the Indian Ocean. As the manta is spotted, our granddaughter receives notifications and videos. We encountered these enormous creatures, with spans 12-15 feet, daily during our fishing, and each was breathtaking.
Leaving the marina in our 17’ EVO X sk iffs each day, we headed out to a series of small islands and atolls. The guides, primarily South African, were experienced and very good at putting us on fish and also great folks to get to know. Friendships for us that we have carried beyond our time on Alphonse.
Perhaps a bit naïve, we thought our trip was basically for bonefish, and had that been all, we would not have been disappointed. We started out taking turns on the front of the skiff, and working the edges of the flats. The action was fast, and we found ourselves hooked into powerful bones in the 4-6 lb. Exciting range on a frequent basis. When our guide, Matt, asked on the first day if we would like to wade, we jumped at the chance. The sand was perfect for wading, and it was on the rare occasion after that when we elected to fish from the skill. Very easy wading, smooth sand bottoms, and somehow we felt more in tune with the fish.
The only experience we have had similar to this was 30 years ago, wading the pancake flats of Los Roques, a Natural Park off the coast of Venezuela; sadly, a destination no longer available for Americans. Here on the flats of the Seychelles, Myriam and I developed a routine; we would find locations within sight of each other and move slowly as the wandering schools of bones came by. Normally, we would each catch and release 4 to 6 bones before moving to explore another part of the flat. Again, while there were certainly smaller fish, it was the rare school that did not contain several in the 4-6 lb. range, and often the schools contained much larger fish. Our largest for the trip was just over 9 lbs.
Had the story ended there, the trip would have been excellent. But then we learned about the giant trevally (the “GTs”). Growing to over 150cm, these fish prowl the edges of the flats and small reefs, especially where the water depths drop more quickly. Known as aggressive predators, they are difficult to catch. Casting accuracy, a heavier rod and large flies are required and even then, they are spooked easily, especially when they are in shallower water. Our guides taught us to watch for the smaller rays that hunt over the tops of the shallow flats. Often a school of GTs would be following the rays, looking for the food in the sand swirls they kicked up. Hunting the GTs became our addiction.
Our success was driven largely by the skills of our guides (Matt and Casey ), we were able to catch six over the course of the week. Most were in the 60-70cm range, although Myriam landed the largest of the week for the entire lodge at 86cm. However, she only remembers the giant—estimated by Matt at 125cm—that got away. They are now our obsession and we will be going back in the spring of 2026. I should also note the presence of both triggerfish and permit; while we saw them, our fixation with the GT was too powerful.
We did have one unexpected fishing adventure. We had a couple of days scheduled as non-fishing days. On one of those, we were invited to join the crew for a “kitchen trip” where they went out for the fish that supplied the kitchen. Primarily tuna and wahoo, once again, Myriam brought in the largest wahoo of the day, and our dinner for that evening. Just a fun day with really great folks.
For us, there are great fishing trips, and then there are great trips with incredible fishing as only part of a larger experience. Alphonse was that trip for us. We returned one afternoon from fishing and were met by the manager. Aware of our anniversary, they took us to a private end of the island, set up a single table on the deserted beach, outlined both the sand and the table with lights, and let us enjoy that special time when the sun gods paint their masterpiece in the western sky before the lights of heaven take over. They then served us a meal of excellence, and left us alone to reflect back over the past 30 incredible years. The experience was unexpected and deeply appreciated
Orlo Dietrich and his wife, Myriam, split their time between the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, the coastal Carolinas, and the magical waters of southeast Alaska. Each year, they spend June through early September living aboard their trawler in Southeast Alaska, with their home port in Wrangell. They are now beginning a new project, exploring the Tongass 77.
Tongass 77: Working with the commercial fishing industry and Alaskan state officials, the Audubon Society, the Nature Conservancy, and Trout Unlimited spent five years identifying watersheds they considered the “best of the best” for salmon and trout habitat. These were unprotected and often obscure smaller streams and rivers scattered through the many islands of Southeast Alaska, some only 3-4 miles long as they flow out of the mountains. The result of this work is called the Tongass 77, and it truly represented a critical project for those who love this incredible piece of our world.
Editor’s Note: Armed with their fly rods (and a good bear rifle), Orlo and Myriam have promised to let us know what they find.
