You find the largest wilderness in the southeastern United States in Everglades National Park. Brackish marsh, tidal creeks of all sizes, saltwater ponds, expansive bays, breathtaking beaches, grass flats, oyster bars, mazes of islands, the open Gulf of Mexico- the range of habitats here will astonish you. You sift through all these places as you watch the wind and tide, searching for snook, tarpon, redfish, and many other fish that make their homes here.
Limited lodging exists in the park in Flamingo. When I visit, I stay in a tent, usually somewhere in the backcountry. Be ready for blazing sun! Be ready for biting insects! You can choose to set up a base camp from which to explore, or you can camp at various backcountry locations.
Almost any type of vessel will work if you use it to its best advantage. I’ve used canoes, kayaks, jonboats, and flats skiffs as my transport mode through the years, and have enjoyed all of them. While the boat choice is yours, my recent trips have all been by paddle.
In the everglades backcountry you may encounter the American crocodile, Crocodylus acutus.
Mike Conneen and I took a multi-day kayak camping trip. On day two we paddled through a shallow, muddy pond, seeing and spooking snook periodically. We did not see the ten-foot crocodile Mike paddled his boat into until it went water-skiing across the surface of the pond. Thankfully it was even more frightened than we were!
Later that day we came across a place where a tidal creek emptied into a salt pond on the rising tide. The place was lousy with snook, and a few redfish and crevalle jacks crashed the party too. Even with muddy water the fishing was outstanding.
Later, on that same trip, we fished a shoreline and grass flat in Florida Bay. The water was clear, the fish spooky. We had shots at lots of snook and redfish, only fooling a few. We found it challenging yet satisfying.
Tarpon- A baby tarpon that took a small Gurgler.
Popping bugs can provide some outstanding fishing. On one trip son Alex and I took the canoe out of Flamingo. We paddled it into a tiny, out-of-the-way pond. Baby tarpon rolled everywhere. They went crazy for a small, white gurgler.
Alex jumped a dozen or so, only landing two after battles where the fish spent more time in the air than in the water. One fish got hung in the mangroves, shaking off the fly after a minute, and forcing us into the mosquito-filled trees to retrieve line and fly.
Maxx with snook- Maxx Kumiski fooled this snook with a small Crease Fly.
On another trip son Maxx and I took a canoe out from Flamingo on a sunny winter day, paddling it to a shallow bay. Snook cruised in water that barely covered them. They terrorized the local mosquitofish population. Maxx threw a tiny crease fly at those snook, and enough fish nailed it to give Maxx a very memorable day’s fishing.
My most recent trip was with Mike Conneen, out of Everglades City. On day two a strong cold front blew in. It knocked the fishing down, but not out. By working hard we were able to get redfish, snook, and seatrout, enough to keep us entertained. We even had fresh fried seatrout fillets for dinner one evening.
I love the everglades so much!
Timing- the everglades are sub-tropical. My favorite time to visit is between Thanksgiving and Christmas because the place is deserted then. Any time between November and April is good. From April to October it’s real hot and real buggy, and not recommended.
Let’s end with a few notes on tackle. Most saltwater fly fishers use the standard eight-weight, floating line outfit. For shallow water fishing I find that gear too heavy (especially for baby tarpon), but go with what’s comfortable. Big fish are found here and the chance of hooking a freight train is real.
For shallow water fishing a fluorocarbon bite tippet from 20 to 30 pound test is recommended. Some fish will wear through it, causing loss of fish along with fly.
Out back- Paddling through a mangrove tunnel in the everglades backcountry.
Heavier tippets equal fewer bites, but you land more of the fish you hook. It’s a balancing act.
Flies range in size from little #6 mosquitofish imitations to 1/0 streamers. Be able to cover the water column. Have flies that imitate small fish, shrimp, and crabs, and have some attractors that don’t imitate anything.
Sharks will take some of your hooked fish. Don’t be shocked.
The everglades are wild, though not for everyone. But be warned, if you visit you may be hooked. It’s a wonderfully incurable disease.
Further Information:
You’ll find the official Everglades National Park website at https://www.nps.gov/ever/index.htm. Of particular import is the Official Park Map https://www.nps.gov/ever/planyourvisit/maps.htm, and the Wilderness Trip Planner https://www.nps.gov/ever/planyourvisit/images/Wilderness.PNG.
If you don’t have a boat, you can rent one in Flamingo from Everglades National Park Boat Tours, https://flamingoeverglades.com/boat-rental/. Everglades Florida Adventures offers rentals from Everglades City, https://evergladesfloridaadventures.com.
Charles Wright at Everglades Kayak Fishing takes kayaking anglers out in a big Carolina Skiff, dropping them off at the “hot spot” and picking them up later. For someone intimidated by the entire camping idea this may be a better alternative. https://www.evergladeskayakfishing.com
Have fun planning and enjoy your trip!