With John driving and Ricky riding shotgun, the 38 mile trip along NY Route 97 from Cochecton, NY to the West Branch Angler & Resort above Hancock takes an hour. Located about 5 miles south of the Cannonville Reservoir and dam, the West Branch Angler & Resort is situated on the West Branch of the Delaware River system.
Since they left early in the day, before arriving at the West Branch Angler & Resort, John and Ricky leave the highways and wander through the backwoods to the Delaware Delicacies Smoke House.
Delaware Delicacies Smoke House
Located along the East Branch of the Delaware River, the Smoke House is a fixture. Armed with proof of COVID-19 vaccination, surgical face masks, and after washing their hands, John and Ricky enter the den of deliciousness. Smoked trout; smoked salmon; aged, smoked cheeses; fresh breads; canned peaches; blackberry preserves. Faced with this euphony of goodness, John and Ricky leave with smoked trout and aged, smoked cheese for the morning as well as jars of preserves to bring home.
The Delaware River System
After checking-in at the Main Cabin and Fly Shop, John and Ricky stow their gear in the two-bedroom, Mountainview cabin where they will be spending the night. Rustically paneled in white, knotty pine, the cabin is named for its isolated view of the Catskill mountains. As the Resort’s River Run Restaurant is booked with a private wedding, John and Ricky head out for a leisurely dinner at The Chestnut in Hancock.
As the only customers in a spacious dining room, John and Ricky sit anywhere. A bit bemused by the emptiness, they skim the dinner menu. Not knowing what they wish to eat, John and Ricky default to ordering Hendrick’s martinis with garlic stuffed olives. Finally, they decide on dinner. John and Ricky each order a Classic Caesar Salad and the Mediterranean bouillabaisse. Dessert is a bowl of vanilla ice cream and hot coffee. Although pitch dark, the drive back to the West Branch Angler & Resort is without incident.
Early the next morning, John and Ricky wake up in their Mountainview cabin. After crawling out of bed, eating smoked trout and cheese, and drinking fresh coffee, they dress in layered warmth. Fleece midlayer bibs; long-sleeve flannel shirts; guide waders; rain jackets; woolen gaiters; water-resistant deck boots; yellowed sunglasses; and knit beanies. As they are fly fishing in late September, before the snowfall, John and Ricky expect a cold, wet float down the West Branch. Where John and Ricky are fly fishing, the water is not deep, maybe 2½ feet max; the river flow is a wadeable, 400 cubic feet per second flow; the water temperature is ~53°; and the river bottom is comprised of small cobble, silt, sand, and occasional boulders.
After a short drive to the West Branch Angler’s parking lot, John and Ricky meet Dustin their guide. Raised with a rod in his hand and technically self-taught, Dustin grew up fly fishing Pennsylvania’s waters for the better part of his life. After fist-bumps and introductions, John and Ricky and Dustin, pile into Dustin’s truck. Trailering a McKenzie River dory, the three of them travel NY Route 17 to Deposit where they put in. Skillfully, Dustin backs the dory’s trailer down the access ramp and into the Delaware River. Once the dory is afloat, yet secure along the riverbank, Dustin drives his truck and the trailer to a parking space where a valet will pick up the vehicles and drive them to the West Branch Angler, where the three of them will put out of the West Branch.
John ensconces himself in the front of the dory. He will cast forward and to the starboard side. John fly fishes with his personal, antique kit. Given to him by his father, John fishes a 5-weight, 9-foot, Congress bamboo rod; a vintage Martin fly reel; and horsehair, braided fly line. Dustin provides the leader, tippet and streamer fly.
Ricky positions himself in the stern. He elects to nymph fish using Dustin’s 5-weight rod, reel, and bobber, while drifting a Pheasant Tail nymph close to the bottom. In order to pilot the dory, Dustin sits facing forward between John and Ricky, rowing into the middle of the river.
From Deposit to the West Branch Angler & Resort, the 6½ mile section of river that John and Ricky and Dustin float is entirely within New York State. Parenthetically, the stretch of river from Deposit to Hancock is 17 miles. At Hancock, the West Branch joins the East Branch to form the mainstem of the Delaware River. It is the bit of water from the West Branch Angler & Resort to Hancock that serves as a border between the states of New York and Pennsylvania.
Despite the complex geography, the drift itself, down the West Branch of the Delaware River is calm and peaceful. The water does not move quickly. However, the weather is tumultuous. Dark skies; cool temperatures; punctuated by gusts of wind. Dustin keeps the dory in the middle of the river. John and Ricky and Dustin pass a group fishing close to shore. Casting and retrieving, they have landed nothing except air. John and Ricky and Dustin keep silent, wave and continue to float by. Occasionally, Dustin rows to keep the dory from running aground on the shallow, rocky bottom. John and Ricky and Dustin pass one other wade fisherman. One-third of the way out from shore, he keeps casting and retrieving. He shakes his head to let us know his efforts have been to no avail.
Suddenly, somewhere along the river, sometime during the float, John hooks a fish. Dustin stabilizes the dory in the shallows while John continues to work his quarry. Although unable to see the fish in the water, John keeps his rod high, and his line taught. After a bit of time, Dustin nets a nice brown trout. After gazing at his trout, John holds it gently in the cold water; facing upstream; water rushing over its gills. Finally, the trout swims off into the river. Pure catch and release. As the drift continues, John hooks two more brown trout.
Meanwhile, the weather is becoming angrier. Adding a cold, rainy downpour to the grey-black skies; unfriendly temperatures; gusty winds. Facing rearward, this nasty weather blows directly into Ricky’s face. Unexpectedly, without warning, heavy rains begin. The water from the sky forms a relentless curtain; a waterfall cascade. Unable to see, except for this wall of water, Ricky feels his rod bend and his line whir, indicating that a fish is hooked.
To Ricky, this is not just any fish; but a big fish. The fight is on. Fishing by feel, Ricky maneuvers the fish closer to the dory. Again, Dustin stops the float while Ricky fights the fish. Since he is soaked from the torrential rains and there is no difference between standing in the dory and wading in the river, Ricky springs from the dory, sloshes through the water, grabs his leader, and leads the fish into Dustin’s net. The brown trout measures 16 inches; the largest of the day.
John and Ricky and Dustin are thoroughly soaked. And Ricky remembers what his brother has said, “Fish live in water, so rain is nothing new to them.” Following John’s lead, Ricky holds his trout gently in the cold water; facing up stream; water rushing over its gills. Finally, the trout swims off into the river. Another catch and release.
The remainder of the float is uneventful. Everyone is waterlogged. No fish are landed. Dustin channels John and Ricky to the put out at the West Branch Angler & Resort. After securing the dory, John and Ricky rest on land while Dustin retrieves his truck and trailer. Expertly backing his trailer into the Delaware River, Dustin secures his dory, pulls the boat out of the water, and drives his truck and trailer to a firm, level spot. Again, John and Ricky fist bump with Dustin. A successful, wet day was had by all.
